MG ZS Steering Fault - clicking when turning

HSI said:
Steering noise ZS2: 3/10 hello MGs it's been a week since I made the modification, no more grip points or noise in the direction ???? the problem comes from the U-shaped washer which had to rub on the fixed frame ? intervention 10 min ? lower the steering wheel to the maximum low Remove the top cover of the steering wheel, it comes on its own A 13 mm flat key on the firm side inclined not the U Unscrew the 2 black screws of 1 cm Move the 2 U-shaped washers circled in red towards the direction Tighten and close everything ? enjoy
Click to expand...
Thanks!!! I made the modification three days ago and solved the problem until now, moved both plates to the center of the steering shaft... Regards!!!
 
fred12345 said:
If you have any photos, please share
Click to expand...
The photos are the same as shown on my reply post, but the one I have attached now shows in green the specific parts that have to be moved in the direction of the red arrows after slight unscrew both bolts. Then screwed back both bolts and thats it! Used the tool on the second fhoto the angle helps a lot to reach the ideal position to unscrew and screw it back. Regards
 

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xichas said:
The photos are the same as shown on my reply post, but the one I have attached now shows in green the specific parts that have to be moved in the direction of the red arrows after slight unscrew both bolts. Then screwed back both bolts and thats it! Used the tool on the second fhoto the angle helps a lot to reach the ideal position to unscrew and screw it back. Regards
Click to expand...
How much of the steering column covers / trims and fixing, did you have to remove, in order to gain access to the plates / bolts you have highlighted on your photos please ?,
This maybe useful for any member who wishes to can out the work themselves.
Was it a13mm spanner size you used here ?.
Thanks ?.
 
Lovemyev said:
How much of the steering column covers / trims and fixing, did you have to remove, in order to gain access to the plates / bolts you have highlighted on your photos please ?,
This maybe useful for any member who wishes to can out the work themselves.
Was it a13mm spanner size you used here ?.
Thanks ?.
Click to expand...
Hi! You only have to remove the plastic cover highlighted in the picture, but before, you have to lower the steering wheel the maximum you can, the plastic cover has no screws but it will stay stick to the car with a part made of synthetic leather. You can put the plastic cover over the dashboard (still attached to the synthetic leader) . For best access, I advise you to stick some adhesive tape on the plastic cover and attach to the dashboard. And yes is a 13mm spanner. Regards
 

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xichas said:
The photos are the same as shown on my reply post, but the one I have attached now shows in green the specific parts that have to be moved in the direction of the red arrows after slight unscrew both bolts. Then screwed back both bolts and thats it! Used the tool on the second fhoto the angle helps a lot to reach the ideal position to unscrew and screw it back. Regards
Click to expand...
Hello! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, can you please specify how much this "piece" should be moved in the direction of the red arrows? It's a like a minor adjustment to be "centered" or it have to be moved until it touches the iron on the side? Just to know when I open mine and try to do it myself :)
 
boira said:
Hello! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, can you please specify how much this "piece" should be moved in the direction of the red arrows? It's a like a minor adjustment to be "centered" or it have to be moved until it touches the iron on the side? Just to know when I open mine and try to do it myself :)
Click to expand...
Hello! I moved the piece all the way that permitted... I think that the piece is shaped in U so for that it can´t go any further, if you look closely the U opening is on the direction of the arrows, if so, there is no way that it can reach the metal edge on the side.... Regards
 
xichas said:
Hello! I moved the piece all the way that permitted... I think that the piece is shaped in U so for that it can´t go any further, if you look closely the U opening is on the direction of the arrows, if so, there is no way that it can reach the metal edge on the side.... Regards
Click to expand...

Thank you!

I have just done the process as described by you and the fellow posters, and so far the clicking is fixed. :)

I did it like 5 days ago and drove around 400km so far, and the clicking hasn't returned. Likewise, I will keep you guys updated if it comes back in the future.

The process itself was pretty fast (around 20 minutes), mostly because I couldn't fit my hand really well in the gap even with the direction lowered at maximum, but it's manageable. One thing to keep in mind is to be careful of not dropping the flat key inside, I imagine it would be pretty hard to get it back.
 
boira said:
Thank you!

I have just done the process as described by you and the fellow posters, and so far the clicking is fixed. :)

I did it like 5 days ago and drove around 400km so far, and the clicking hasn't returned. Likewise, I will keep you guys updated if it comes back in the future.

The process itself was pretty fast (around 20 minutes), mostly because I couldn't fit my hand really well in the gap even with the direction lowered at maximum, but it's manageable. One thing to keep in mind is to be careful of not dropping the flat key inside, I imagine it would be pretty hard to get it back.
Click to expand...
Hello my friend all the credits go to the member HSI that I thanked in this thread... I just posted some more promenorized information about the process...
 
I have a '24 ZS EV Trophy Connect and it clicks when I turn right.
I'm taking it into the dealer to look at - is there a known MG issue which I can point them to, or should I point them to this post?
 
Chris H said:
is there a known MG issue which I can point them to...
Click to expand...
There are many threads on this, and an Australian video. Use the search facility. It's not clear to me that all the replacement steering columns actually needed replacement; it's possible that something just needs tightening and MG's procedures aren't able to identify this. A replacement column is done under warranty, but the part takes weeks to arrive, so it's still a major pain for the customer.

However, there was at least one case where a steering component came apart completely, with parts of loose on the floor. Obviously this is extremely dangerous. But I suspect that this was a very unusual case.
 
Hi guys! There may be a chance that that solution does not solve the problem... like in my case that solved temporarily .... but after some time the click sound returned but not so frequent. But the noise ends for some time after I regulate the steering wheel height, but after some time returns. Today I saw this video

It says that the height locking mechanism of the steering wheel has no strength enough, tomorrow I will try to follow the video instructions, an I will leave here my feedback. Regards
 
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xichas said:
Hi guys! There may be a chance that that solution does not solve the problem... like in my case that solved temporarily .... but after some time the click sound returned but not so frequent. But the noise ends for some time after I regulate the steering wheel height, bau after some time returns. Today I saw this video

It says that the height locking mechanism of the steering wheel has no strength enough, tomorrow I will try to follow the video instructions, an I will leave here my feedback. Regards
Click to expand...

Thanks for that link, it's exactly what I needed to work out how to get the bottom cover off. Tightened the bolt a little, and added a locking bolt to stop it working loose again.
 
Additional to the two bolts that attach the steering column to the dash cross rail inside the cabin, there is a third BOLT that also secures the steering column assembly to the bodyshell of the car.
It can only be accessed from under bonnet and will require removal of both wiper arms and then the black plastic wiper scuttle panel removing.
The single bolt passes through the bulkhead and tail of the bolt can be seen from inside the cabin.
I am pretty sure it is the same spanner ? size as the other cabin bolts.
Other owners have found that check tightening of this fastener, has helped with the situation also.
 

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